Do derms and RDs recommend collagen supplements?
Here’s the latest we know about powder-based collagen, and what the pros think of it
For over seven years, I’ve been a vegetarian. And I’ve recently given it up for the sake of…vanity.
My morning routine now includes a scoop of Vital Proteins Collagen Peptides (I know I’m super late to the party, but I’m a vegetarian, remember?). And, no, I haven’t opted for the brand’s marine collagen version—I take the bovine one, which has significantly higher reviews. I figure, if I’m making the effort to ingest a lump of powder every day, I want to make sure I’m getting the most bang for my gulps.
But if I’m being honest, I’ve remained willfully ignorant about the precise source of bovine collagen because I don’t think I could stomach that information. All I care about is how it may boost the look and feel of my skin and help me age in reverse. *Cue Carly Simon’s You’re So Vain.*
Now, you may be wondering: What made you suddenly decide to start taking a collagen supplement? I’m glad you asked! Let me explain:
Wait—remind me again: What’s collagen?
Collagen makes up 80 percent of skin and helps to keep it elastic. But when we hit our 20s, we start losing 1% of it each year. On top of that, external factors like sun exposure, pollution, and cigarette smoke can accelerate collagen breakdown.
Naturally, I want to do everything I can to maintain youthful collagen levels. While I’m pretty good at avoiding the sun (have you seen my pasty gams?), I can’t exactly avoid all the pollution and cigs around me while living in Paris. So I figured I’d try to replenish my collagen supply by stealing a cow’s.
Can collagen supplements actually boost your own supply?
The collagen in powder-based supplements is called collagen peptides, which are “made of the same amino acids as collagen but are more easily absorbed by our bodies,” writes Gabriela Ulloa in this The New York Times story. “How much of the supplement is absorbed and whether those amino acids make it to their target organs to act as the building blocks to make more collagen is still up for debate.”
In other words, collagen powder may make skin look more youthful. Studies (like this 2019 one) show that it can improve “skin hydration, elasticity, roughness, and density” after taking it for three months. The catch: These studies are small and often funded by supplement companies, so more research is needed.
What do the pros think?
Many doctors aren’t drinking the collagen Kool-Aid. Dr. Ellen Gendler, a clinical associate professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center who’s known for being a brutally honest derm, told Air Mail that people who believe that drinking collagen builds collagen are “the biggest bunch of fools.”
However, some doctors see its potential. Dr. Whitney Bowe, the TikTok-famous dermatologist with the Rapunzel-like mane told The New York Times that even though the studies on the benefits of collagen supplements are “small and preliminary,” they still show promise. In fact, she recommends powder-based supplements to her patients and has seen “noticeable benefits in terms of skin elasticity, firmness and hydration.”
Also, a few years ago, I interviewed Toronto-based registered dietitian Andy De Santis for a story for Best Health, and he told me he sees the benefit to taking collagen supplements for beauty purposes. More recently, I chatted with LA-based board certified nurse practitioner Jennifer Hollander, and she told me she’s all for using them to help boost skin health, too.
Should you give collagen supplements a whirl?
I can’t answer that! But here’s what I can tell you: They’re not associated with adverse side effects, save for maybe digestive woes for my IBS friends.
But here’s something else you need to know: Collagen powder is vile. And that’s coming from someone who does everything possible to mask its taste. The directions on my supply of Vital Proteins say you can mix it with coffee and tea—but I’m certain neither would mask its taste or texture enough for me.
Its directions also say you can mix it into a smoothie. So I ordered a blender and picked up some frozen ingredients—the same ones found in my favourite smoothie from Juice Generation, Mr. Greengenes (but with much less sugar since it contains a hideous 24g). The smoothie’s made with almond milk, spinach, and mango, and I can still taste and smell the collagen. It’s what I’d imagine powdered bone to be like to consume. I’m sure its presence is so detectable because the amount of powder you actually need for one day’s dose is significant. I find myself plugging my nose to block off my senses as I chug down the smoothie, not unlike I did at age 23 when a friend would pour me a too-strong drink. I also rely on a glass of lemon water as a “chaser.”
So, do I notice a difference in my skin? Of course not—it’s only been a week. I should see results in three months, as long as I can stomach the bone powder for that much longer. You know I’ll keep you updated.
Have you found a good way to consume collagen powder? Let me know in the comments!
Until next Sunday,
Renée
I am glad someone said this out loud. I wholeheartedly agree that the stuff just tastes nasty and there is no way to mask it. I think this is just another wellness health fad with no clinical basis for benefits. I stick to the old fashioned tenets of taking a multi vitamin, using a good moisturizer and sun screen, eating a balanced diet and attempting to get enough sleep. That goes a long way to healthy skin.
Collagen powder is one of those things I always wondered if it actually worked or seemed like a scam. Thank you for this, I’m definitely more curious to try it now.